Perth to Exmouth: from water world to Aussie salute
Although I’ve bombarded you with quite a few pictures over the last month, it’s already been a while since my last post. So much has happened since I left Perth; I hardly know where to start.
In the last 5 weeks alone, I’ve joined 4 very different but all so worth it guided tours (Perth to Exmouth, Exmouth to Broome, Alice Springs to Adelaide, and Kangaroo Island), so I’ll tell you a little bit about all of them in the next few days.
Perth to Exmouth: 1,800+ km in 5 days
During my trip to Esperance, I already got a first glimpse of the beautiful things the west coast has to offer. How diverse the scenery is, hit me even more when I travelled up to Exmouth (and later Broome) with Aussie Wanderer. Our 6 all-girls tour group – love you, ladies! – hardly left Perth when the temperature started rising and we felt the famous Western Australian heat.
First stop were The Pinnacles in Nambung National Park, a yellow desert full of odd limestone formations. For me, even more impressive was our destination at the end of the day: Kalbarri National Park with its massive red and white gorge, and well-known Nature’s Window. (I even went abseiling from a 25-meter-high rock wall the next day!)
Since I returned to Australia, I realise how much I love morning hikes. Getting up earlier than I would normally prefer, these walks are a perfect way to grasp nature waking up. Call me sentimental, but there’s just something about the first rays of sunlight touching the earth. Some newlyweds must have thought the same thing because they were doing a photoshoot, all dressed up in their wedding outfits, overlooking Kalbarri’s gorge. Either that, or they were just two models working on a fashion shoot. 🙂
Water sport heaven
The main attractions of trips up to Exmouth, however, are Indian Ocean related. If snorkelling or diving are your thing, it’s not only the Great Barrier Reef on the east coast that can please you; the west coast has just as many beautiful fish and coral. Add some whale watching, swimming with manta rays or whale sharks, and of course the wild dolphin experience at Monkey Mia, and every water sports addict will be drooling.
Unfortunately, nature will always be unpredictable so both our trips to swim with manta rays in Coral Bay and spot whales in Exmouth were cancelled due to risky winds at sea. Luckily, I stayed in Exmouth a few more days before moving on to Broome, which meant I could do the whale watching tour on another day. I felt really sorry for the other girls who had been looking forward to these water excursions so much because they were returning to Perth the next day.
Whale watching on a big catamaran was a great experience. A bit scared if I would conquer my seasickness after taking only one travel sickness pill, I sailed off into a very friendly sea together with two Germans, two Dutch grey nomads and the Aussie captain. At first, it seemed we wouldn’t see that many whales, but the closer we got to sunset, the more whales kept popping up. Some were really close, others further away, never to be spotted again after their first sighting.
The highlight of the afternoon was a whale mum who decided she needed some rest on her travels down south. While she was sleeping, she stayed above the water the entire time and her calf kept swimming around her; she obviously didn’t think we were a threat. On our way back to shore, they were still there. Magnificent creatures!
Snorkelling for dummies
To be honest, I’m not much of a snorkeler. The last time I voluntarily put my head underwater with a snorkel in my mouth must have been at the Whitsundays during my Australia holiday 7 years ago. It just doesn’t feel natural. The whole breathing through your mouth, eyes open, and not having to squeeze your nose to prevent water from coming in… I’m not a fan.
So the first time we rented snorkels at Coral Bay and water kept coming into my mouth every 5 seconds, I thought it was me. That I somehow didn’t hold my head in the right position or I was biting on my snorkel too firmly which might have created little holes in it or something. While the other girls swam further into the ocean to look at some nice coral, some sweet green fish with yellow tails and blue fins kept me company by swimming around my legs in the less deep water. I slowly got used to the wonderful world of snorkelling, albeit I had to continuously empty my snorkel.
How much more fun was my experience the day after, while snorkelling at the heavenly blue Turquoise Bay! Without getting water into my snorkel, I finally understood what everyone was so enthusiastic about. Though I still didn’t swim too far from the coast, it was truly a great adventure to see all the different fish and coral. (And I’m sort of glad I didn’t see the small shark the others bumped into while snorkelling further away.)
One of the things I don’t recall from my trip to Oz in 2009, is the number of flies. I’m not sure if there just weren’t that many of them that year, or if I blocked them from my memory, but they are definitely here now. You might think Aussies just like to wave at you (which is actually also true – drivers still make friendly hand gestures while passing each other on the highway), but this is in fact the so-called ‘Aussie salute’.
You know when flies are trying to sit on your eye balls, lips, nose, ears, etc. and you wave your hand in front of your face to scare them off? That’s it. If you visit Western Australia, South Australia or the Northern Territory, you better start practising. Or buy a fly net, it’s up to you. Although they did annoy me from time to time, I must say the flies didn’t influence my feelings for this country too much. Even without a fly net, I was able to breathe in and appreciate the beauty around me (…while shallowing 1 or 2 flies along the way).
In a nutshell…
A trip from Perth to Exmouth means hotness, dusty red earth, green bushes, hundreds of flies, but above all: stunning white beaches and a magical world right there to admire in the clear blue ocean. Or as my lovely tour mate Becca would say: lots of peak happiness!
Rottnest Island: bike heaven covered in banana peel
Obviously there is one thing Rottnest is famous for: their quokkas. Rotto actually has to thank some Dutch guys for its name, because they were under the impression the island was inhabited by giant rats (rott – nest). They didn’t know these cat sized animals were actually the always smiling quokkas. Two things I learned from my day among these cute creatures is that they are not afraid of people (on the contrary: they like to climb on humans and bikes), and it’s impossible to eat a banana while they are around.
Secrets of Esperance: wild flowers, chicken roulade and the bluest of blues
When was the last time you fell asleep listening to the ocean?
When was the last time you fell asleep listening to the ocean while wearing a capri under your long joggers, combined with a tank top, T-shirt, Provisionerd hoodie, vest, socks and hat? Inside a sleeping bag, inside a swag? ^^
If the answer is never, you still have about 6 days to quit your job and book a plane ticket to Australia, because sleeping in a swag under the stars is something you should experience at least once in your life.
Admittedly, it was a tiny bit cold, but who cares when you can wear the entire contents of your backpack? The award at the end of your suffering is a sky so full of stars, you want to switch careers to become an astronaut. Or a chicken roulade. One of those two.
Highlights of the Southwest
It’s already been 2.5 weeks since I started exploring the southwest coast of Australia, but it was so worth it that I have to tell you a bit more about it. Obviously, I don’t want to bore you with endless chitchat, so here are a couple of highlights you should definitely try to see if you ever decide to visit this region:
- Wild flower season is totally worth adjusting your trip dates for
- 360-degree view from Frenchman Peak in Cape Le Grand NP
- Walking/climbing from Thistle Cove to Hellfire Bay – “it’s just an easy coastal walk”, “the worst is behind us”, “I’m sure we’re halfway there”
- Kangaroos on the beach at Lucky Bay
- Massive trees at Valley of the Giants
- Crossing a fairy-tale forest on your way to the Granite Skywalk of Porongurup NP
- Climbing the super scary former firemen’s Diamond Tree Lookout
- Crazy blue ocean colours at Frenchman Bay, Greens Pool and many, many more beaches and bays
- Oh yeah, and free chocolate at the Margaret River Chocolate Co.
Tour guide wisdom
Funnily enough, trips like this also teach you a bit more about the other gender. Firstly, surf dudes are not as tough as you’d think. I can safely say this because we didn’t see a single surf dude during those 6 days we were cruising the region. Apparently, their excuse was that the wind wasn’t right. Pfft.
Secondly, guided tours are mostly booked by girls. Somehow guys prefer to just buy a car and drive around themselves so they can enjoy their freedom. Which is fair enough, but it fascinates me, because I’ve always loved guided tours. In addition to being driven across the country while either enjoying the view or catching up on some sleep, you’re also bombarded with random facts and stories. About Australia’s complicated history with the Aboriginals and Europeans, the Rabbit Proof Fence (which we passed), salt lake beds, special plants and trees, naming conventions, scary shark stories; basically, anything you can think of.
That’s how I got my hands on some very crucial information about punching a shark in the face if it attacks you. Since that’s what saved one of our guides’ friends when he was bitten in the butt.
Another random fact is that Australia’s (unofficially recognised) national animal and national bird are the red kangaroo and the emu. The romanticised story is that neither of these animals can move backward, only forward; a symbol for progress. Unfortunately, I googled it and it turns out they can actually move backward as well, although only infrequently.
I also learned that “up” at the end of all those names for villages, national parks, flowers etc. (like Porongurup) actually means “place of” in Aboriginal language. Place of many trees, children, summer flies or wild turkeys. I’m not kidding, apparently “Mullalyup” means “place where the young men had their noses pierced”. 😀
Let’s leave it at that.
The Perks of Perth
It’s only been a few days, but Perth has already treated me to a bunch of firsts: the first kookaburra of my trip (spotted ‘in the wild’), the first heavy showers (followed by more heavy showers), and the first Germans (wouldn’t be able to live without them! ;)).
After two smooth 6.5 and 10.5-hour flights (transferring in Abu Dhabi), I arrived at my hostel in Perth on Wednesday afternoon. As an introvert, a hostel is the perfect place to step out of my comfort zone. All those strangers invading my personal space, sharing the bedroom, bathroom and kitchen; it’s something that needs some getting used to. Luckily everyone here is really laid back, and since it’s a pretty small hostel, it feels a bit like a student house. (Not that I ever lived in one since I very happily avoided that way of living while I was at university.)
Only three days in, I already have a special place in my heart for my 23-year-old Italian bunkbed buddy. Every time we’re trying to have a conversation in English, he’s looking at me with these big, scared Bambi eyes. It didn’t take long before we started using our hands, feet and Google Images to make sure we were actually talking about the same topic.
The biggest group of Europeans here, however, are ‘ze Germans’. I’m not sure yet if they were arranged by my dear ex-colleagues so I wouldn’t miss them too much, but if so, I appreciate the effort. Add a couple of Dutchies and a handful of French(wo)men, and you get a nice mixture of roommates.
Kings Park and Botanic Garden
So what have I seen so far? On Thursday, I had a stroll to the harbour which ended a bit sooner than expected since I didn’t even reach the bridge before it started pouring with rain. Even for someone who lives in the Netherlands, these were some impressive showers! After enjoying the view for about twenty minutes, it still didn’t get much better, so I went back to the shopping area by racing from one shed to the other.
I even considered going back to the hostel but in the end, I was really glad I didn’t, because by the time I reached Kings Park and Botanic Garden, the sun came out and the sky turned blue. The rest of the afternoon I spent walking around this beautiful park with over 3,000 species of flora. The sweet scent of some of the trees and flowers just woke up my holiday senses. Another plus is that Kings Park is located on a hill, which results in a great view of Perth’s skyline.
On Friday, I hopped on a train to Fremantle, a smaller city with a hippy feeling, about 30 minutes from Perth. It was almost a shame that I don’t drink coffee because they even have a Cappuccino Strip to try some world famous black gold. Or so they say. ;)More interesting to me was Fremantle Markets, a typical indoor bazaar with little shops that sell mostly food and souvenirs. The Aboriginal relics reminded me of Hugh Grant walking down Portobello market in Notting Hill: “Thousands of people buy millions of antiques; some genuine… and some not so genuine”.
Secrets of Esperance
After a few days without having to set an alarm, I’m actually excited to say I’ll be picked up at a hostel down the road at 7 am tomorrow morning. My first 6-day guided tour from Lost in Australia is starting, and I’m thrilled to finally see some natural wonders of Western Australia. I’m especially looking forward to visiting the Valley of the Giants where we’ll be admiring some massive trees (and probably enjoy some tree hugging). Other highlights will be the white beaches of Esperance (including the odd sunbathing kangaroo), Wave Rock and last but not least: sleeping in swags under the stars.
Part of the fun of travelling for 2.5 months is having the luxury of not planning everything in detail. If your holiday only lasts a week or two, you have no time to lose, so deciding where to go when is the smart thing to do. On the other hand, if time is on your side, there’s always the risk of “wasting” it. I decided my happy medium would be to prepare my route to a certain extent. Especially since I want to combine the west coast (where I haven’t been yet) with some highlights from the centre AND east where I’ve already been back in 2009.